This is a holiday for 4 and a half weeks travelling ( 6th of December 2003 till the 5th of January 2004 ) by local transport and with backpacks in Chile, Easter Island and Argentina.

From Santiago via the mysterious Island Rapa Nui to Patagonia.

Visiting Punta Arenas onwards to Puerto Natales starting point for a 5-day hike in Park National Torres del Paine.
Entering Argentina to walk for three days in Park National Los Glaciares and visit the spectacular Perito Moreno Glacier.

Enjoying the Lakes and volcanos in the neighbourhood of Puerto Varas and Pucon. Ending our trip back in Santiago after spending a day in PN Huerquehue.

We arrived at the airport of Santiago in the morning (10:00 am) after a flight of 14 hours. (Return flight Europe - Easter Island stopover in Santiago, 1517 Euro pp)
Our next plane to Rapa Nui (Easter Island) was scheduled for 18:00 the same day, which left us time enough to exchange some money and confirm our tickets (Lan-chile pass (220 Euro pp for 3 inland flights excluding Easter Island) and back to Europe). 5 Hours later we arrived at Rapa Nui.
We didn't reserve any hostels but that's no problem on the Island. At the airport there are a lot of places to choose from. We decide to try Chez Oscar. (US$ 30 for a double room including breakfast and no kitchen use) Oscar took us to the place, which is a very nice clean place with a Veranda close to the airport and the centre. As a welcoming we got some fruit juice, which is very nice after a long day of travelling.

The next morning we had breakfast at 8:30 and started to walk the Northern Loop around 11:00. (After buying lots to drink, food and a map) We walked anti-clockwise. The path is relatively easy and you can image why walking the loop clockwise could give you some trouble finding the way. But for making pictures it might be nice to walk clockwise. We walked via Puna Pau to Ahu Akivi where we had some lunch to Tahu Tepue and back to Hanga Roa were we arrived around 17:00. In the evening we had diner in the main street for $20.000 (two persons) and afterwards went to view the sunset at Ahu Tahai.

The next day we went for a tour of the Northeast Circuit ($20.000 pp) 10:30 -18:00 with AO Tours. The Guide speaks English very well and tried to avoid the crowds as much as possible by waiting or just taking a different road. Good background information. We started at Ahu Vinapu to continue to northern loop via the volcano Rano Raraku that is very impressive and strange. Here you can find Moais in every stage of construction. Visiting the beautifully restored Ahu Tongariki with some nice carvings completing our trip via Ahu Te Pito Kura ending at the beach of Anakena. Every spot has it's own beauty. Unfortunately we had a little rain but lucky us it became sunny and dry at the most spectacular sites. In the evening we bought some bread wine and beer for diner on the Veranda of Chez Oscars ($18.000)

The third and last full day on the island we went for a walk to visit the Orongo ceremonial village. After doing some shopping for water and food we started our walk at 10:30. The walk to the village took us 2 hours. On our way to the village we passed the Rano Kau crater, which is a spectacular view. The Village itself (entrance $5000 pp) is very well restored and gives you a good idea about the Birdman Cult. After our visit we had lunch at the mirador of Rano Kau before walking back to the village for a little more then an hour. After buying some food in the supermarket we had again diner on the Veranda of Chez Oscars.

The following day we had to take our plain back to the mainland, which was delayed for two hours. After arriving in Santiago we went straight by taxi bus ($3.000 pp) to Recidencial Londres ($14.000 + US$ 4.40 double room ). The Old colonial Building gives you the idea that you stay in a Hotel. The price might seem high but it is very good value.

After a very short stay in Santiago we had to catch our early flight to Punta Arenas, which was our first flight of our Lan-Chile Pass. We started the day at 6:00 am with a taxi to the airport ($8.000). If you are travelling early make sure you have some small bills since the taxi drivers aren't able to change. Our flight took us in Punta Arenas in 4 hours including a 25-minute stopover in Puerto Montt. To get to town we took the Pacheco bus (Avda. Colon 900, $1.500 pp ticket bought in the bus)
First we went to look for a hostel. We found a very simple, clean but cheap place a few minutes walk from the centre named Tres Hermanos (Anagamos 1218 $6.000 for a double). The hostel doesn't have free breakfast anymore but kitchen use (if you know how to cook on a wood of cole burnt stove.) After a little cleanup we went to find a tour to the Otway Magallanes penguins. We booked our tour at Central de transporte de Pasajeros (Avda. Colon esquina Magallanes) for $5000 pp (Scott Tour , avda. colon esq Magallanes)

The tour started at 16:00. The ride to the penguins is very nice and if you're lucky you will also see some other wildlife like rabbits, nandu's and foxes. The entrance of the park will also cost you $2.500. The park has a very nice boardwalk, which takes you very close to the penguins. It's always nice to see these silly animals. We had 1 and a half our to spend which is okay.

After returning to Punta Arenas we went for dinner at Los Patiperros (Avda Colon #782) where we had some Chilean soup and some drinks for $10.200 for two persons.


Later during our trip we returned in Punta Arenas on or way back to the North of Chile. We started that day in Puerto Natales taking the bus (Fernandez, $4000 pp) taking us to Punta Arenas in 3 hours. We haven't done anything special that day but we stayed in a very nice Hostal Magalanes ($5.000 pp including breakfast) friendly owner, which also owns a travel agency. That night we also had diner at Los Patiperros.

This day a travelling day and preparation day. Our goal was to start walking in the Torres del Paine the next day. So in order to have a full day of preparation we took the early bus of 8:00 am. (Buses Fernandez $3000 pp 3 hours)

After arriving in Puerto Natales we were very lucky to get a room at Dos Laguanas ($7.500 pp including a very good breakfast). This very nice hostel owned by the even lovelier Andrea and Alejandro is probably the best start for tours in the area. Alejandro speaks English very well and can tell you everything you need to know about walking and making decisions in the Torres. You can also leave you valuables and some luggage behind. He also knows some very useful places like the Laundry service (Bulnes 513, 1kg for $2.000 ready and dry in a couple of hours and open till late in the evening), Bus services and restaurants. For a fish diner Alejandro recommended Centro Espanol (Magallanes 247). This is a very big, but very good restaurant. It isn't cheap ($20.300) but very nice for a change and if you like fish worth a visit. A good place to internet is Azzak Ciber Cafe Bulnes 499. ($800 p hour)

After a good breakfast from Alejandro the bus company JB picked us up at 7:30 for our trip to The Torres del Paine ($11.000 pp round trip , 4 hours one-way). The bus takes you from Puerto Natales to the entrance of Torres del Paine (Guarderia Laguna Amarga) through the beautiful Patagonian scenery. Here you sign in and pay the entrance of the park $8.000 pp. Alejandro told us that if we couldn't see the Torres from this point the best thing to do is take a bus in the Park (included in the round-trip) to Refusio Pudeto. This way you will have another change of seeing the Torres at the end of you trip. So we did.

From Refugio Pedeto where we arrived at around 12:00 we catched the boat to Refugio Lago Pehoe ($10.000 pp). Due to two unscheduled bus stops we lost some time so we couldn't pay a visit to the Salto Grande next to Refugio Pudeto. We were very lucky with the weather during our boat trip so we had some spectacular views of the Cuernos. On the other side of Lago Pehoe we started our W-hike to Refugio Grey. This day takes you along Lago Grey beginning in the grassy plains up the a long rock rib (ascent and descent 300m) for about 11 km. With every corner you have a better view of the lake with its magical ice rocks floating like ships. Very soon after the start you will see the Grey Glacier which get bigger and bigger as you go along. It took us about 4 hour to reach the Campemento Grey ($3.200 pp). First we pitched our tent and then we went for a short walk to the mirador, which has a great view of Glacier Grey. We stayed there for more then an hour before returning to our tent to cook our dinner.

The next morning we woke at 6:30 to start our second hiking day. After breakfast and packing we started walking in the direction of Refugio Pehoe were we started the day before. Even though it is the same way you already walked you will be amazed by the different views you will have. Halfway that day (3 1/2 hours) we lunched at the camping grounds of Refugio Lago de Pehoe. We continued our trip to Campemento Italiano (Free of charge, but no facilities). During this trip we passed Lago Skottsberg and Lago Nordenskjold walking along the Cerro Paine Grande. The second part of the trip about 8 km took us 2 1/2 hours. After pitching our tent at Campemento Italiano we went for the mirador at Valle de France but the weather was too bad (Lots of wind and rain) which forced us to go back before reaching the viewpoint (1/1/4 hour round-trip). We went to bed early and hoped our tent would survive the very strong Patagonian winds.

Day three we started to walk at 8:30 to the Refugio Los Cuernos (2 hours, 5 km) were we had a cup of coffee in the sun with the condors circling above. In sunny weather we continued to The Campemento Las Torres. A very beautiful hiking day with great views of the lake and the Cuernos. It took us about 4 hours to walk the 11 km (160 ascent 100 descent) Arriving at 16:30 we had still plenty of time to pitch our tent and enjoy our first view of the Torres. The money for the campemento will be collected at your tent ($3.500 pp inclusive transfer to the Guarderia Laguna Amarga).

The next day should have been our encounter with the Torres. The day started with lots of rain so we waited for a while to start our walk up to the Torres. We started at 10:00. Halfway (1 1/2 hours) we stopped at Alberque El Chileno for a hot chocolate. From this point we still had a clear view of the Torres. We walked up to the Mirador but the weather changed and at the top it was cloudy and snowy and no views at all. Too bad. In the evening we had a few drinks in the Refugio Las Torres where we almost lost our boots. Before entering you have to take them off and leave them outside. Unfortunately for us someone believed to have her shoes and went away with the wrong ones (half size bigger). Next time we will take the shoes off but never leave them outside or we hide them a little outside.

After a short night sleep we went back to the refugio to find our boots. Lucky for us the person noticed some differences in age while being on the road already and returned to see if she could find hers. After packing and having some breakfast we went to walk to the Guarderia Laguna Amarga to catch the bus to Puerto Natales. But every ten minutes we had to look behind to the beautiful Torres. We walked for about 1 1/2 hours to reach the Guarderia to sign off and leave the Torres del Paine with a broken heart. After arriving in Puerto Natales we did some laundry (1 kg $2.000 Lavanderia ServiLaundry, Bulnnes 513 open 9:30 am till 10:00 p.m.), internet and had a great meal at El Asador Patagonico ($20.000 two persons) The best meat restaurant we encountered in Chile. We also bought our tickets to get to El Calafate the next morning. ($15.000 pp, Turismo Zaahj)



Later during our trip we returned to Puerto Natales for Christmas. That day started in Argentina (El Calafate). We took the bus (Zaahj, $45, 5+ hours). In Puerto Natales we stayed at Hostal Dos Lagunas ($7.500 pp) where Alejandro and Andrea invited us for Christmas. That evening we had dinner at La Tranquera (Grill restaurant, Manuel Bulnes 579, $11.000 for two persons). Good value for the money.
Christmas for us was a relaxing and shopping day. Bought some presents for Alejandro and Andrea where we had a Christmas lamb BBQ with the family which was very nice. That evening we couldn't stay a Dos Lagunas and Alejandro arranged a room for us at a friend ($8.000 pp) a very nice room in a Hotel like environment. The next day also a lazy day returning to Dos Lagunas and we had dinner at our favourite Patagonian restaurant El Asador Patagonico (mentioned earlier)

This morning again an early rise (7:00) to catch the bus (Zaahj, $15.000 pp, 4 1/2 hours) to El Calafate where we arrived at 11:30. The bus trip trough the planes are very impressive and empty. Our first idea was to stay in El Calafate to visit the Perito Moreno and travel further to El Chalten. Since we couldn't arrange a trip for the Perito Moreno, which meant we would loose a day. We decided to travel directly to El Chalten that day. The bus (Chalten Travel, $40 pp, 4 1/2 hours) would leave at 18:00 so we had some time to kill in El Calafate. We arrived in El Chalten at 22:30 in rainy and windy weather. Since El Chalten is quite isolated and only exist due to tourism every hostel is packed. (It might be a good idea to make a reservation for the first night if you are arriving late) We were lucky to find an 11-bed dorm for $22 pp (Aroiris).

The next morning we first try to find a new hostel for the night we were going to return from our walk and to leave some stuff. We found a very nice new hostel (Crew Herw, Las Loilan (without number) Chalten Santa Cruz email:HugoacostaCastilla@hotmail.com) The hostel is situated in the north of the town at the beginning of the important walks just past the Alberque Rancho Grande. After leaving some of our stuff behind we went to buy a ticket for our return to El Calafate a couple of days later. That day we started to walk to the Cerro Torre at Campemento De Agostini. This is a relative short and easy walk. It was made a little more difficult due to the rain and wind. It took us 2 1/2 hour to reach the Campemento. In the afternoon when we rain stopped we made a little side trip to the glacier which was a great view.

The next day would we woke early to walk to the Fitz Roy. First we visited the glacier and had a short view of the Cerro Torre. After that we started our walk to Campemento Poincenot, which took us three hours. Also due to the improving weather we had great views of the Fitz Roy and her satellites. After pitching our tent we made a side trip along the river. Unfortunately we couldn't reach the glacier lake where we would see the next day for the viewpoint.
Before returning to El Chalten again we wanted to visit the viewpoint of the Fitz Roy. The next morning we started a little late due to the weather but our patience was rewarded at the top. The viewpoint gives you a spectacular view of the two glacier lakes and the Fitz Roy. It's a steep walk for about an hour (uphill). After returning from our side trip we started to walk back to El Chalten (which is quite a hard walk) where we arrived early in the evening. Here we stayed in the previous mentioned very nice hostel of Crew Herw (dorm 6 persons $22 pp)

The bus (Chalten Travel, $40 pp) to El Calafate departed at 8:00 and brought us back in El Calafate in 5 hours. After arriving in El Calafate we first found a too expensive room at Los Pinos ($40 pp). That day we also wanted to visit the Perito Moreno Glacier so we booked a tour at Interlagos ($60 pp). The tour started at 15:00. The minibus brought us to the park (entrance $20 pp) and made some nice viewpoint stops. Unfortunately the boat, which allows you to get very close to the Glacier was broken. Still the viewing point of the Glacier is very impressive. We had some luck with the weather since it was dry for 2 hours when we were in the park. The Perito Moreno is a Glacier not to be missed if you are in the neighbourhood. That evening we had dinner at Rick's ($17 pp all you can eat)

The next morning we took a taxi to the airport at 6:00 ($4.000) where we took the plane to Puerto Montt (almost 2 hours). Here we catched a transfer to town ($1.000 pp). From the bus station we catched a bus to Puerto Varas ($700 pp). We stayed in Hostal Compass del Sur ($9000 pp) and $1000 for a "big breakfast". A very nice, clean hostel with a very big kitchen and very nice rooms. The Hostel also provides information for trips in the neighbourhood. Puerto Varas is a very nice ,cozy touristy little town. A relaxed place at the lake with great view of the volcano’s at the other side of the lake.

The first day in Puerto Varas we made a walk along the lake to the next village. A nice walk with lovely views over the lake. From there we took a minibus ($600 pp) to Frutillar which looks like a German beach resort. A nice little town which a good views of volcano Osorno. From there the bus brought us back to Puerto Varas ($700 pp). That evening we cooked ourselves for about $9.000. (including wine and beer) The next day we went to the Saltos de Petrohue. (bus at 9:30 $750 pp) The entrance of the nice little park is $1.200 pp. In the park there is a nice walking path to spend a couple of hours. After our visit to the nice waterfalls we went further to Petrohue. ($500 pp by bus) We walked for about 3 1/2 hours along the volcano Osorno to the Refugio Ricardo, which we couldn't find (maybe because it doesn't exit anymore). The walk is a very nice walk with some great view of the Volcano and the lake at the border of Argentina. (For a lot of travellers this is also the way to cross the border to Bariloche, Argentina) We returned to Puerto Varas with the last bus 17:15 ($750 pp) where we cooked our own meal ($6.000)

The next day we left for Pucon by bus. ($6.500 pp, 3 1/2 hours) After arriving in Pucon we took a Jacs bus to the Hostal Kila Leufu ($7000 pp for a double room). A very nice hostel with good rooms. At little bit expensive but quite an experience since they provide some activities which go to other places then the rest of the operators.

The following morning we made a walk with Kila Leufu to the Vulcan Quetroplian. ($14.000 pp) It was a nice walk through the forest and snow to the top of the extinct Volcano with a great view of the volcano Villarica and some other volcano’s in the neighbourhood. We walked for about 8 hours that day. A great experience. Entrance of the private property $1.000 pp. We had a great day of weather on the last day of the year. That night dinner at Kila Leufu and together to Pucon for the fireworks and a drink.

The third day just a lazy day. A good night sleep. In the afternoon we went for a walk to the lake (entrance $500 pp) (not for swimming, the water is too cold for that) In the night we went to some thermal baths, which is a nice experience in the night with candlelight. ($10.000 pp).

The next day we decided to leave Kila Leufu and went to Pucon. There we found a nice hostel next to the bus station named Backpackers Hostal. (Palguin 695) double room for $6000 pp.

The last day in Pucon we took the bus at 8:30 to the National Park Huerquehue with Jacs bus ($2.600 pp return). the entrance of this very nice National Park was $2.200 pp. We walked for 5 hours in this beautiful park along the Laguna Torre, Verde and Chico. It's hard to describe a walk but the pictures will speak. We returned with the last bus, which departed at 17:30 and arrived in Pucon at 18:30.


The last days of our stay in Chile we were basically getting back to Santiago to catch our plane back to Europe. During these days we visited Chillan. To get from Pucon to Chillan we took a bus ride of 6 hours (Bus Jac, $5.800 pp) Chillan must be a great market place but we have seen better in South America. We stayed in Hostal Canada. A nice hostel with very friendly people ($4.000 pp). For the rest Chillan has some nice terraces so it isn't too bad too stay for a day.


The last travel day in Chile to Santiago took us 5 1/2 hours by bus (Tur-bus, $6.600 pp). From the bus station we took a taxi to Hostal Londres a great place to stay. Before going home to Europe we spend a day in Santiago.

We had a great time in Chile and Argentina. Two countries where a lot can be discovered. Our report is just a story of a small five weeks. We hope to get back here someday because there is still a lot to be seen.