This is a holiday for 5 weeks travelling ( 3rd September till the 1st October ) by
local transport and with backpacks in friendly Ecuador and the Galapagos
islands.

From the big town Quito via the Otavalo markets, through the Jungle of Tena to Banos with its lovely views.
Visiting the crater lake of Quilotoa and the spectacular highest active volcano in
the world Cotopaxi. Taking the train from Riobamba on the rooftop to the Nariz
del Diablo nearby Alausi. Staying in the student city Cuenca before visiting
Guayaguil to catch the plane to the wonderful Islands of the Galapagos were
we took a 8 days cruise.

After travelling for about 17 hours from Europe to Quito we arrived at the airport in the late afternoon.
As recommended by friends we took a cab ($4) to the hostel "Vienna" (Tamayo 879) where we stayed fro three nights in a double for $11,40 a night.
In the evening we strolled along the nearby Amazones and had a curry and drink in the "Elefante Cafe" (crossing Reina Victoria and Wilson) for $11.

After a good night sleep we had breakfast ($4,25) on one of the few terraces of the Amazonas and took the Trolley bus to the Old Town from where we first visited the Virgin of Quito by cab. The rest of the day we walked trough the street of the old town visiting Quito Plaza, San Francisco Monastery and the old colonial buildings. In the afternoon we visited our already becoming usual terrace at "Cafe Amazonas" (Av. Amazonas 514) for a drink and watching the people passing by. A meal and drinks at "Elephante Cafe" ended our first full day in Quito.

If you're in the country of the Equator a visit to it is a must. So the next morning we were going to visit Mitad del Mundo ( the middle of the World) located 22km north of Quito. For only $0.34 pp the busses from Quito will take you there. At Mitad del Mundo (entrance $0.50 pp) a yellow line has been drawn indicating to be the Equator, which isn't true. The real equator however can be found next to Mitad del Mundo in the lovely little "Inti-Nan" museum (entrance $2 pp). The guides will show you that the real Equator is in the museum by performing some scientifically tests. They also give you a little background information about the country it's inhabitants and there culture. We liked it very much and if you visit the middle of the world we recommend you to pay a visit to this outdoor museum.
In the evening we had some great en cheap empanadas for dinner in a local place just around the corner at Wilson and the Amazonas next to the bookshop. We ended the day by watching a world championship qualifying soccer match in the pub with the locals, which is a great experience. Soccer is one and probably the biggest sport in Ecuador and if you ever have the opportunity of watching a game of the national team try to get some tickets.

After an early rise we took a cab ($3) to the central bus station to catch a bus to Otavalo ($3.20) to visit the markets and the yearly Yamor festival (held the first two weeks of September).
The bus from Quito will take you to Otavalo in about 3 hours. In Otavalo we stayed for two nights in the hostel "Maria" on Jaramillo near Colon ($8 for a double). Which is a very nice and clean place.
Otavalo is a very friendly place known for its markets. The daily Poncho Market with its lively colours, the daily Food market and the Saturday animal market. If you like to buy something buy it here because you won't get a better change to choose. We visited the Poncho market and the food market that day and had a drink in cafe "Paris" owned by a nice friendly Frenchman.
During the day some festival activities took place like street soccer and live bands.
In the evening we had an too expensive meal (Platos tipicol and pollo sopa) in a Yamor festival tent.

The next morning we took a walk to the next village where a swimming contest would take place in Lago San Pablo. It was a very nice walk experiencing the normal life in Ecuador. In the afternoon we would have like to go to the roaster fights but since there weren't a lot of spectator it was postponed. We had our dinner on the street at one of the many little BBQ’s, which is very nice and very cheap ($2).
To visit the animal market on Saturday it's wise to rise early. The market starts at 5:00 am. maybe it's a good idea to let the people in the hostel know you want to be early we couldn't get out of the hostel before waking up some people who could open the gate. Don't expect too much of this market. It's just a little field where the farmers bring their cows, pigs, chickens etc but it's very nice to see how they transport their animals and see how the people are dressed. Returning from our visit of the animal market the Saturday Poncho Market was being set up. Which means that the entire town is one market place. Since we decide to go the Tena we had a fast breakfast at the bakery next to the hostel "Maria" and walked to the central bus station.

After visiting Otavalo we left for Tena by first taking the bus back to Quito ($3,20) where we had to wait for an hour to catch the bus to Tena ($10). In total the bus trip took us from 8:00 am till 11:00 am to Quito. From Quito it took us 7 hours to reach Tena. Normally it will be one hour less but since we had to wait for a landslide it took us a little longer.

We stayed that night in the very nice Hostal "Travellers Lodging" which have very nice clean, double rooms ($10). It's also the place where we arranged our Jungle Tour at "Amarongachi Tours" starting the next day. Since time is limited if you want to see a lot of things this was a good combination for us. We booked a three-day tour. With the help of Pepe named after a racoon we planned our activities for the trip.

The next day after a good breakfast at the hostel we were picked up at 8:00 am to first go to the "Cando" camp which is a one-hour drive and a 15 min walk. Due to the beautiful weather the program was a little bit adjusted. We started for a walked of 20 min to a Laguna where we did some swimming for a little more then an hour. To get back to the camp we did some tubing on the river with the tubes that we brought from the camp. Back in the camp we had a very good lunch and were given some time for a siesta. At the end of the day we did a medicine walk in the nearby Jungle, which could be better compared with a large garden. Back in the camp we had just enough time to eat our dinner before we were picked up to go to our second camp "Shangrila". Before getting to the pickup spot we had to walked to the road again. Because of the dark, rain and a too young guide it took longer then expected. Arriving at the pickup spot the too young guide disappeared leaving us in the dark not knowing how long we should wait. It took about 45 min before the pickup truck arrived. The truck brought us to the second camp. After arriving at the second camp the gates were already closed and it looked like the camp didn't expect us anymore. Lucky for us Roberto our new guide was still awake and very helpful to bring us to our cabin for the night.

We decided to set our alarm clock very early in the morning to see the sunrise , because we were told that the views from our cabin would be spectacular. During the night there was a lot of rain and by the time we woke up there wasn't a lot to be seen. A little disappointed we went to sleep for a hour more and were very surprised to see the clouds clearing. Everything that said about the views then is true. That day we had a great day with Roberto our private guide since we were the only people in the camp. He took us on a jungle trip you would expect. Despite our Spanish he managed to explain everything in English. We walked for about three hours seeing bromeliads , paradise flowers , leaf cutting ants and lot more.
After again a very good lunch Roberto took us to the Mirador. It was a very nice walk and had great views. We even see a nest with a little hummingbird, vultures and tasted some lemon ants. In the evening we enjoyed the views of the jungle from the camp.

Our last day in the Jungle started with a very heavy shower, which didn't seems to stop. However we decided to make the trip to the Indian village. First we had to cross the river in a canoe which was a lot more difficult due to the rain and the strong current because of that. On the other side of the river we walked for one and a half hour to finally arrive in the village where we were welcomed with "Chjitja" a local drink. After visiting the village we went back to the camp to have lunch and dinner within one hour which is very nice but too much. After dinner we were brought back to Tena were we stayed in the same hostel. We had a great time in the Jungle but the best days for us were the ones in Shangrila. Not just because of the view but also for the people who run the camp which were very helpful and very nice.

The next day we headed for Banos, which means baths. The bus trip from Tena to Banos ($7) takes about 7 hours and takes you from the Jungle to the middle of Ecuador via a beautiful scenic route. This is also the road which a lot of people take to do a mountain bike trip from Banos. We stayed in the hostel "Magdalena" ($8) which is a quite large hostel clean and just behind the busy main street of Banos. That day we walked around in Banos to see the town, which is very nice but also a bit touristy.

The next morning we walked for a day around Banos starting at the Virgin of Banos to a viewpoint of the volcano "Tungurahaua" which is still active which you can see by the smoke. We walked for about 6 hours that day ending a "Bellavista" for a drink and a view over Banos. In the evening we visited the sugarcane stalls where we tried a sugarcane juice, which is awfully sweet. Dinner we had at "Los Alpos" ($10) a nice little restaurant where it looks like they have to buy the food a after you ordered. So if you're in a hurry it won't be a good idea.

We would have like to walk for another day in Banos but due to the rain we decided to return from our walked behind the sugarcane stales and try to catch the bus to Latacunga. Therefore we also the Cuy that we haven't seen anymore during our stay. But for the weather it turned out to be a good decision.

Latacunga not the greatest city in Ecuador but because of the possibilities for excursions a place not to be missed. From Banos it's only a two-hour ride by bus ($4) so we arrived in the afternoon. We decided to stays in Hostel "Tiliputo". It is a nice hostel, clean and the room are quite big. Too bad the rooms have a busy street beneath. We walked around to see how expensive a trip to the highest active volcano the "Cotopaxi" ($45) and the crater lake "Quilotoa" ($60) would be but ended at booking these trips at the hostel.

The first trip we took was the one to the crater lake. After breakfast we were picked up by our "guide" (read driver) to bring us to Quilotoa. The road to the crater lake has some great view and if we wanted we could stop the car any second to make a picture or just to have a look. Before arriving there we also visited the lovely local Saturday market at Zumbahua. It's very nice to walk over a market with not so many tourist. Just sitting on the stairs looking what's passing by. From Zumbahua it's not so far ( by car, by foot can be different ) to get to the crater lake. The crater lake is a very amazing site as you can see on the pictures. We also must say we were very fortunate with the shiny weather. The way down to the lake is quite easy ( half an hour ) The way back took us an hour walking. If you not too fit you can hire a donkey to get you back at the top. As we got back to the top it started to rain. Lucky for us a local family lunch was already prepared so we could get inside.

The next morning we visited the volcano the Cotopaxi 5897 mtrs "the easy way". It was a shiny day, which we were told is very unique. To get there by bus would also have been a possibility be from the entrance of the park it's quite a long walk to get to the Refugio at 4800 mtrs. We walked from the parking places 4600 mtrs just the 200 mtrs to the first ice and snow. At 4800 you will have a great view over the park but also the top of the Cotopaxi. Which from stories looks easier the reach the top but can be very difficult. We haven't heard anymore reaching the summit during our stay in Ecuador. the rest of the day we visited a little museum had some lunch and drove through the park. Our guide wanted to take us to a local festival in Puljica but due to a flat tire we missed it.

Riobamba was a must during our stay in Ecuador. Not just because the train for the Nariz del Diablo leaves the but also since we booked our Galapagos trip via the internet with a travel agency, which was located there. The bus trip to Riobamba was only 2 hours from Latacunga ($3,20). with a cab for $1 we arrived at the hostel "Trendorado" ($12) which is a very nice hostel next to the Train station. The train for the devils nose leaves only a couple of time a week and one of it's charms is you'll never know if you going to reach the end station. This train has a derailing reputation. But before we started the trip we had to buy a ticket ($30) and quite a circus. Every tourist in the neighbourhood is at that station and so is everyone who wants something to sell.

The next morning 6:00 am it's time to get your spot on top of the train. Three notes of advise. Be prepared for every weather condition, rent a pillow ($1) and try to get a seat at the right side of the train ( this is the best side and only side to have a proper view of the Devils nose ) The train is normally leaving at 7:00 am but we were lucky to derail directly from the train station. It's very amazing to see that they are able to get it back on track with just a few rocks. During the ride we derailed twice but they managed to get it back on track both times. Which is very handy since it can be a long walk to the road. The trip takes you for 7 hours trough the countryside with its small villages. Since we didn't want to take the risk of walking with our backpacks we took a bus from the end station of the train Alausi to Riobamba. That evening we had dinner behind the train station in Riobamba at the little stalls which was very good and very cheap.

From Riobamba we took the bus to Cuenca, which is a bus ride for 6 hours ($10). We decided to go to the hostel "Milan" and ended up in a very heavy discussion with the manager. We were offered room 307 which is a dirty , small room for the same price as the rooms that were twice as big clean which a big window etc. We would have accepted the room if they lowered the price of the room. We were very glad that we always take a look at the room before paying any money because it's easier to leave again. Lucky for us we ended up in probably one of the best hostels in Cuenca "El Cafecito" ($12) We stayed in a very large clean room in the back of the cafe. If you're going to stay in this hostel try to get a room , which isn't connected directly to the cafe because it can be noisy. We had a great time in Cuenca. Not that we have seen or done much. But it's always nice to visit a place where it's good relaxing. If you're travelling for a long time "El Cafecito" and Cuenca can be a dangerous places because you will never want to leave.

On the other hand our minds were already in the Galapagos.

After staying one night in Guayaguil which is about 5 hour from Cuenca by bus ($10) our next destination was the Galapagos Islands. We booked a trip for 8 days/7 night cruise (Boat Flamingo $540) and a return flight (Guayaguil - Galapagos - Guayaguil $300) via the internet at Julio Verne Travel in Riobamba.
Leaving the airport of Guayaguil early in the morning we arrived at the Isla Baltra around noon. After arriving at the island you first have to clean your boots in order to avoid bringing diseases from the mainland and you may be checked on bringing seeds and other damaging products for the islands. Since the Galapagos Islands are a national park you will have to pay an entrance fee of ($100 per person. So visiting the Galapagos is expensive but if you're interested in the animals and their environment it is worth it.

Our first moments on the islands were a little worrying since the guides were telling us that our boat the Flamingo set of sailing the day before our arrival. Lucky for us the guide of the San Juan, Miguel was kind enough to adopt us since he was missing two Dutch people on his list. Don't be surprised if it happens to you as well. The guides seems to know exactly how many people will arrive for the cruises so if you don't have the right boat on your ticket there is always a guide missing some people.

At the boat lunch was served and the rules of the Galapagos island were explained. The rules are quite simple but too many tourists don't follow them which is a serious thread to the beauty and the uniqueness of the islands.

Our first encounter with the incredible wildlife was at the Island of Santa Cruz at Las Bachas Beaches. It's actually strange to see that the animals aren't afraid of humans and this behaviour will amaze you during the entire stays at the islands. On our first trip excursion to the islands we already saw lots of different species like the pelican, frigate bird, marine iguana, Sally Lightfoot crabs, ghost crabs, flamingos and turtle nests. A short walk on the beach our guide explained what's special about the animals and what makes them different form mainland species. After some free time for swimming and snorkelling time we went back to our boat to have a great dinner made by Johnny the Cook and to sail to the starting point of the next day.

Day two started very early in the morning. At 6:00 am we went to Sullivan bay were you go back in the history of the Galapagos islands. During the little boat ride to Sullivan Bay we encountered the Galapagos penguins which is the most northerly found penguin in the world. At Sullivan bay you will see the recent (200 years ago) streams of lava and volcanic formations (ropey lava, AAA lava, etc) from which the islands are made of. Here you can also see the first vegetation the pioneer plants who will prepare the lava for other plants to grow.

On our second excursion of the day we visited the island Bartolome which is the youngest volcanic islands of the Galapagos. On the island we made a 600m walk to the summit of the island (114m) trough the moonlike volcanic landscape. It is said to be the most photographed spot of the Galapagos. After the walk we had some time for snorkelling. This snorkelling spot is a good place to have your first underwater encounter with the sea lions which is a never to be forgotten experience. The sea lions are very curious and playful and keep circling around you. We also had an underwater encounter with a Galapagos penguin and marine iguana, which made our snorkelling a great experience. On the other side of the island is shark bay where we saw about 30 white-tipped reef sharks.

To complete day two we went to Puerto Egas where we also did some snorkelling with sea lions. We also took a walk at the island to see marine iguana bathing in the sun, seals and sea lions and lots and lots of Sally Lightfoot crabs. Puerto Egas is also a place were you can see the destruction people can cause to the environment.

Day three took us to the island Rabida with it's red beaches. The main attraction on this islands are the nest of the Pelicans. We also saw sea lions with their little ones in search for their mother. We also did some snorkelling where we encountered a stingray and lots of fish.

Back on the boat we saw some dolphins form a distance and some flipping mantas. Our second landing that day brought us to Cerro Dragon where there is the possibility to see some land iguanas. This trip was a bonus trip from our captain since he thinks the boat trip to Puerto Ayora is too long for us and it gives us the possibility to have a first encounter with the land iguanas, which we thought was a very good idea. After a nice walk and some very close encounters we sailed for four hours to Puerto Ayora. Here we stayed for the night in the harbour having a few beers and laughs in the "Limon y Cafe".

Halfway the cruises it's time to pickup some new people and say goodbye the some old. This day is always spend on the island of Santa Cruz. In the morning we visited the Charles Darwin Research Station. Here you can meet the land turtles where the Galapagos is named after. Here you can also find "Lonely George" who is believed to be the last living one of its species. It's nice to see the turtles but it kind of strange to see them live in captivity. Lucky for us our guide also knew a place to see them in the wild, which we did in the afternoon. During this stay at Puerto Ayora it also a change to arrange a wetsuit for the people who can't stay in the water too long due to the cold. It may look expensive to rent one but remember one thing "How many times will you visit the Galapagos".

Like described above in the afternoon we were going to visit some turtles in the wild. This "bonus trip" to a private property ($5 per person) was really worthwhile. Guided by the owner of the land we saw a lot of turtles and visited the lava tunnels which are also located at this property.

In the evening after again a great dinner we ended up in the "Limon y Cafe". It turned out to be a very nice night in which we also composed a song for the crew of the San Juan. (lyrics available on request)

During the night we sailed to Floreana. Here we visited Punto Cormorant. Here we had a very close encounter with the silly looking mating ritual of the blue-footed boobies. We also visited the Laguna were the flamingos can be found and ended the excursions at a white beach where we could have seen some sharks but we only saw some stingrays.

After our walk we went snorkelling in the Devils Crown, which is a crater in the sea. Here you have the possibility to see some shark unfortunately we3 didn't see them but the snorkelling was great.

The last activity of the day was a visit to post office bay to mail a few postcards without any stamps and see if they we delivered back home which happened within two weeks.

Day six brought us to Espanola also called booby island. here you can see a lot of blue-footed boobies and their young’s. This is also the place to see the masked booby, different coloured marine iguana, lava lizards, Galapagos hawk and albatrosses. It's one of the best islands to visit. Due to a little accident one of our group slipped and broke her arm we have to skip snorkelling and had go back to Santa Cruz for the hospital half a day early. So we arrived in Puerto Ayora again. And again we stayed for the night in the harbour having a few beers and laughs in the "Limon y Cafe".

Day seven took us from Puerto Ayora to the Islands of Santa Fe. Here we saw different coloured Iguanas and Cactus trees. After visiting the island, which is in it's own way beautiful we went snorkelling. This time we were lucky to meet with a sea turtle and a white-tip reef shark besides the always curious sea lions. During the afternoon we visited the smallest islands of our trip the Plazas. Although small these island are a must to visit with its variety of wild life and little red plants. On this island we also met the tropicbirds with their long tail.
In the evening we had our last diner and Johnny the Cook made a wonderful goodbye diner and even baked us a cake. In the evening we had a few drinks on board with the crew and even the captain could not resist to join us. With his bottle of rum we created the last briefing picture of our trip. The next morning a new and our last Galapagos animal, the frigatbird.

Our last day at the Galapagos brought us to North Seymour. Here we met the Frigat Bird on their nesting ground. We even saw a Galapagos snake, which is said to be very rare. We even got a last performance of the ever comic blue footed friend. What we experienced at the Galapagos islands isn't easy to describe. We most say it's definite worth a visit. We had an absolute splendid time on the Islands. Our thanks also go to the people of the San Juan who made it possible for us to enjoy the Islands.