This report describes holiday for 4 and a half weeks travelling ( 11 december 2004 tot 10 january 2005) by "local" transport at the Hawaiian islands Oahu, Kauai, Hawaii and Maui.

From The Gathering Place visiting Honolulu, Pearl Harbor, Diamond Head and Waikiki Beach to the Garden Island.

At Kauai paying a visit to the Na Pali kust with three-day hike highlight, Kalulau trail to fly off to Big Hawaii after visiting the Kokee state Park with her Waimea Canyon.

Big Island with her Vulcano National Park, Hana Drive and snorkeling.

And finally the Valley Island to visit the Haleakala National Park, Iao Valley State Park, surf beaches and do some whale watching.

We arrived at the airport of Oahu 22:00 in the evening. (Return flight Europe - Hawaii via Los Angeles, 766 Euro pp). We already booked our place to stay via the Internet at the Hokondo Waikiki Beachside hostel. To get there from the airport we used the free Shuttle of the hostel.
The Hokondo Waikiki Beachside hostel is a few blocks from the beach. It costs $60 per night for two persons for a semi private bedroom with a $20 deposit.

The hostel is a very nice place with free breakfast and Internet facilities. The semi private is very nice. The kitchen and other facilities (like the fridge and bathroom) are clean but that's also depending on your roommates. There is also a booking office to arrange trips around the island(s).

Since we decided not to stay to long on the island of Oahu we tried to get cheap plane tickets for Kauai. We found out that the airlines stopped selling flight coupons and that it would be cheaper to get a ticket with one of the local operators. Since most of the operators are closed on Saturday we decided to go to Pearl Harbor by bus ($2 pp). There is no entry fee for Pearl Harbor but you must put your bags in a baggage deposit ($2).
After a movie of 40 minutes where they give you an explanation of what happened they bring you by boat the USS Arizona Memorial. All is very well arranged and very impressive. After Pearl Harbor we went back by bus to Chinatown and walked back to Waikiki.
Our Diner we had at Fatty's Chinese Kitchen (2345 Kuhio Ave, Waikiki)which serves a main course for only $3,50.

The next day we went to buy a plane ticket for Kauai ($77 pp Aloha airlines) at Magnum Tours & Tickets. After that we went for a walk to the Diamond Head walking (3 hour return walk) along the last few miles of the track of the Honolulu Marathon, which was held Sunday 11 December. Diamond Head has a very nice view of the island and Waikiki Beach.
That night we went back for diner at Fatty's mentioned earlier.

Monday morning we took the bus to the airport (1 hour drive, $2 pp). After arriving at Lihue (Kauai) we took a taxi to get a permit for the Kalalau trail ($10 pp pn on assigned campgrounds). After collecting our permits we took the bus to Kapaa (with our backpacks) ($1,50 pp) and arranged a sleeping place at Kauai International Hostel. (dorm bed $20 pp). We had diner at Hamburger restaurant Bubba's ($16 for 2 persons).

The next day we tried to get the bus of 8:30 to Hanalei, but due our backpacks they didn't want to take us so we had to hitchhike which went well. After searching for gas the day before without any luck we found gas at Pedal & Paddle (Ching Young Village Shopping Center, Primus $10.99, They also had Campingaz but we didn't had the correct fitting).
After another hitchhike we started to walk to the first campsite (2 Mile), which took us 2 1/2 to 3 hours. It is a very nice walk along the cliffs of the Na Pali Coast on a well maintained trail. The trail to the first campsite is a very popular daywalk and due to that fact quite busy. After hiding our backpack we make a roundtrip to the waterfalls (2 1/2 hour roundtrip).
After returning we pitch our tent and had diner on the beach were we met a guy according to his story was living there for two year now living of the scraps of what the tourist left behind.
That evening a helicopter arrived to put up signs for high surf and to check if people didn't pitch their tent on the beach.

The following day we had breakfast with "Robinson" and started our walk to the 11-Miles Camp along the ever-spectacular Na Pali Coast. The track however after the two-mile camp is very narrow and overgrown. The middle section in the bush is hard and boring but the last part makes up for that. We couldn't camp at the 11 Mile due to high surf so we had to stop and pitch our tent at 10 Mile (7,5 hours) at a very nice grassy cliff with a great view of the high surf (which seemed to be very high last December according the Hawaiians).

The next morning after an early rise (6:30) we went for the return trip to the 2 Mile camp (7 hours). Arriving at the two mile camp it started to rain and we decided to walk to the end (beginning) of the trail. The rain makes the trail very muddy and slippery after 1 1/2 hour we finished the trail. Lucky for us because no permits were given for two weeks due to heavy rain. We hitchhike back to Hanalei and from their another hiker we met on the trail brought us back to Kapaa Where we stayed at the Kapaa international Hostel in a semi private room ($50 pn).
We had diner at Mermaid (in the book), which is a very nice little place to eat with very good food ($25 two persons).

After our walk at the Kalalau described in a seperate section we wanted to discover what more Kauai had to offer. In order to rent a car in Lihue, arrange a permit for Kokee State park and get a plane ticket to Big Hawaii we hitchhiked to Lihue. At the airport we rented a car at National ($229,44 for 3 days). For a permit for Kokee State Park ($5 pn) we went to the county office. That day we also arranged a plane ticket to Kona (Big Hawaii) directly booked with aloha airlines ($101,70 pp), which was hard, close before Christmas.
Diner again at lovely Mermaids ($21 two persons).

To collect our rental car the following morning we hitch-hiked to the airport and left for Waimea via the Waimea Canyon Road (route 550) stopping at every viewpoint along the road which has some spectacular views like the Waimea Canyon Lookout, Pu'u Hinahina Lookout, The Kalalau Lookout with a view of the 10 mile point of the Kalalau trail and the Pu'u Kila lookout. After that we pitched our tent at the Kokee State Park with basic facilities (toilets and cold showers).

The next morning we rose early to do some hiking. We went by car to the start of the Awa'Awapuhi lookout trail combined with the Nualolo Cliffs Trail and the Nualolo Trail, which is approximately 9 mile (which took us 6 hours). If you have great weather like we did the views are more than breathtaking especially the Lola vista. After our walk it started to rain.

The following day was a rainy day and we drove to the beach to see if the weather cleared. Unfortunately it didn't so it turned out to be a lazy day with a little Internet ting at the Visitors Centre in Waimea (for free).
We resumed our holiday in Hawaii with a flight to the Big Island the next day at 3:15 pm. ($203,40 Aloha airlines for two persons).

After a flight of a little more then one and a half hours with stopover at Oahu we arrived at Kona airport were we took a taxi to Kona ($24). We stayed at the Koa-Wood Hale Inn. This is a very nice place clean with fully equipped kitchen ($65 semiprivate room, security deposit $65) and close to the supermarkets.

The following morning we would have liked to go snorkeling but due to the high surf all the beaches were closed. We spend our day in Kona at the Kamakahonu Beach in the center of the town. Due to the high surf the beaches stayed closed for one more day so we tried to arrange a car and some gas for our stove. Due to the Christmas holiday renting a car can be very difficult. Since most of the cars are already pre-booked we couldn't find a car. Our search for gas for our stove wasn't very successful as well. There aren't many shops who are equipped for people who like to camp. So after a "lost day" we hoped to have more luck the following day in Hilo.

To get to Hilo we had to take the bus at 6:30 at 24th of December. But unfortunately for us the bus didn't leave at this day but it would leave Christmas day early in the morning (Which we think is strange). So back to the also surprised staff of the Koa Wood Hale Inn hostel. That day we went snorkeling at Kahalua Beach (transport Ali-Shuttle $4 pp return trip). We rented a snorkel for $8 at The Snorkel Rental Depot at Kahalu'u Beach. The snorkeling is very nice, easy snorkeling with lots of fish and green sea turtles.

Finally we could leave Kona the next morning (again with the very early bus 6:30 hele-on bus which took us to Hilo in 2 hours for $7,5 pp. At the airport of Hilo we were lucky to get a rental car at Budget ($423,64 for one week including CDW and Liability insurance). We took the car and drove via the scenic drive to the Anaka falls and the Rainbow falls. We stayed at Arnott's Lodge ($49 semi private room). A very nice and clean hostel with lots of facilities and possibilities to make serveral tours.

After our visit of the Vulcano National Park decribed in its own section we continued our trip on Big Hawaii back to Hilo for some camping permits via the Lava tree monument. We didn't think this is a very impressive park. It are just a few trunks of lava. After arranging some permits at the County of Hawaii we drove via the north to the Waipo lookout to the campsite Mahukona ($10 for 2 persons). The campsite is very nicely situated at the seaside with basic facilities but no drinking water. While cooking we saw a whale sprouting in the distance.

The following morning we went via Hawi to Pololu Valley (The other side of the Waipo lookout). After a cup of coffee we booked a plane ticket for Maui at Magnum Tours for $80 pp (by phone) and drove to Kona to arrange some additional campsite permits. Along the way we visited some historical sites. we stayed that night at Hookena Beach Park which is a nice campground on the beach.

The next morning we went by car to the Puuhonua o Honauau National Historical Park (entrance $5 for the car week pass). This is a very nice rebuild village and worth a visit. After visiting the park we went for a snorkel at the bay next to the park. This bay is well known for its spinner dolphins, which try to rest there which is almost impossible with all the tourist chasing them. The locals dislike the chasing by the tourist and expect the dolphin to leave this place if this continues. Since they don't rent snorkeling gear we were lucky to loan one from the locals. To get back at these dolphins. There is no need to chase them. If you are snorkeling you will see them anyway and more special hear them communicate. Hopefully the tourists will be more careful in the future so that more people and dolphins can enjoy this special bay. After our swimming we went to the black sand beach of Punaluu to pitch our tent at the almost empty campsite ($10 pn for 2 persons). There could have been turtles at the beach but we didn't see them.

The following day we went back to Hilo via the Vulcano NP. So we stopped to ask if the lava was already flowing into the sea but since it didn't we didn't try our third walk. After arriving in Hilo we checked in at the Wild ginger Inn (bamboo room $65) The Wild Ginger is a very nice place to stay (clean, quiet).

The following morning an early rise to do some shopping for the next days on the camping and get to the Volcano NP. The last village before the NP we were able to get some gas for our stove in the hardware store (very expensive $20, So if you can get it in Hilo it would be better but we left Hilo on a Sunday).

First we went to the visitor’s center of the NP where the rangers can provide you a lot of useful information about the lava flows and all the backgrounds and educational movies. The entrance of a week pass for a car is only $10 (cheap compared to individual tickets). Since most of the people would like to be face to face with the lava the rangers also explain how to get there and what to bring and do. Despite warnings about good footwear, enough to drink, walk careful you will still see people on slippers with no gear try to walk to the lava flows. Since the lava flows were one of the reasons for us to visit Hawaii we drove to the end of the chain crater road and started our walk. At the starting point we asked the rangers if we would be able to return by daylight. Since this must be possible we started our walk. During our walk we say people coming back with large cuts on hands and knees so we were warned for the second time to be careful. In a slow pace we were able to get to the lava in 1 hour.

This is a spectacular view to see land being made. It's also a bit scary to be that close never knowing what nature has in mind. Later in another walk we will explain what we mean. We stayed for an hour to get back at the start in another hour. We returned to our campsite Namakani Paio (free of charge) with basic facilities. Due to the rain we made our food in front of one of the cabins.

The next day we went to the Vulcano NP to explore more of the park. We started to walk the Kilauea Iki loop, which has some great viewpoints. After that we visited the Thurston lava tube and round the crater via the Crater Rim Dr. After that we drove for the second time to the end of the crater road in a slower pace then the day before stopping at a lot of viewpoints and also to make a stop at the Puu Loa Petroglyphs.

But the highlight of the day would be walking to the lava in daylight and staying there till dark before returning again. So as we experienced the day before the walk to the flow took us an hour but much to our surprise at the end of day you can see the lava flow and activity much better and even before we reached the actual lava flow we had to cross some of the just hardened lava with volcanic activity underneath.
This is what we meant by you never know what nature has is mind. This is a strange but also a risk which you don't see during daytime. The way back in the dark with only a flashlight takes much longer then the way up there. The marks can't be seen very well and so navigating must be done with the ocean on one hand and the mountain on the other. Since you can't see to far ahead you will find out that the way back is over much rougher terrain with more difference in height. We got back in 1 1/2 hour.

The last island during our visit. After getting we took an early plane (6:45 on New Years day) via Honolulu. We arrived with dry weather, which changed quickly to heavy rain. After arranging a car at Budget ($555,45 for 9 days) we were going to find a place to stay. After a lot of searching we found a place to stay at the Northshore Hostel in a nice clean room ($55). The hostel is a nice place, good kitchen and the hostel also organize trips every day of the week like the Banana Bungalow hostel.

The next day it is still rainy heavily. We decide to go shopping in the Mall waiting for the rain to stop. After that we went to the Iao valley, which is very nice even, or maybe because of the low clouds.

The next day we went to the Haleakala National Park decribed in its own section.
After our visit of the Haleakala National Park we continued with the Hana Drive. The Hana Drive, with it's falls and very nice views is very different than the dry crater. For aplace to stay that night we drove to the campground of Oheo Gulch, part of the Haleakala NP (free of charge, no drinking water).

After a visit to the 7 pools and Hookipa beach without surfers in the morning we went back to Wailuku where we stayed in the Beach Bungalow ($55,50).

The next day we had more luck at Hookipa beach. After our coffee in Paia we found the surf legends beach Robby Nash at Hookipa beach filmed by Discovery Channel. Unfortunately he was only demonstrating on the shore but nevertheless nice. There were some surfers on the waves so we stayed watching for some time. In the afternoon we were going whale watching with the Pacific Whale foundation (price depending on departure starting at $20 pp). This trip was a little disappointing so we asked if we could go again on the same ticket. Since we weren't the only ones we were granted a new attempt the following day. The next whale watch was much better but not spectacular. (You simply can't control nature) We only saws some tails but no breatching. That night we stayed at the Northshore again. Our last day at the island it was raining again so we went for a viewpoint to spot some whales which we did, went for some shopping and went to the airport to go back home again.

The following morning we tried to get some gas for our stove without any luck again. Without gas we went to the haleakala National Park. (week pass for a car $10) There is a lot of wind that day and no view at all. The rangers answered our question if we could go for a walk with "it would be an adventure". After a walk of 10 minutes we decide to go back due to the wind and the lack of view. We pitched our tent at the free Hosmer Grove campsite of the NP. This campsite is nice place stay if you visit the NP. There is plenty of wood to build a campfire or light one of the BBQ's. It also has a little shelter.

The next day an early rise for the sunrise. A lot of cars and tours are filling the road and the crater top very early in the morning. It's quite cold at the summit. It had been freezing. The sunrise is very nice but more impressive is the morning glow in the crater. It gives a red color. At 8:30 we started to walk the sliding sands trail with our backpacks (including our tent) the walk is very impressive it looks like you're on a different planet especially when you are alone.
We wanted to camp at the Holua campsite but since we arrived early we decided to walk to the trailhead
where we arrived at 15:30. We hitchhike back to the car, which was not that easy at the end of the day. If you want to walk the same trail we would recommend to park your car at the trailhead in the morning and hitchhike to the summit or park your car at the summit and hitchhike to the trailhead. (Hitchhiking in the morning to the summit would be easier) We stayed again at the Hosmer Grove campsite.