This is a report of a holiday for 5 weeks (12 February till 17 March) travelling by rental car (Avis, Economy Car, Fl.2762,80 for 5 weeks including insurance) in divers and surprisingly beautiful New Zealand.

Of these five weeks we spend two on the northern Island starting in Auckland via the North along the centuries old forests of the Waipoua Kauri Forest via the Bay of Islands with her dolphins to the Coromandel. To continue our trip with a stopover at the Waitomo Caves with her glow worms to thermal active Rotorua. After a failed attempt to walk the Tongariro Crossing a bit of relaxing in Art deco City Napier to make the crossing to the Southern Island at Wellington.

The other three-week on the Southern Island via the Queen Charlotte Drive to the Abel Tasman NP to drive via the seal colony at Westport to the Fox Glacier where we hiked on the Glacier at visited the mirror lake Lake Matheson. From the cosy town of Wanaka we went for a couple of days to Te Anau to experience the Milford and Doubtful Sound (Fjords). After the Southern Scenic Route passing Otago, Oamaru seeing the wildlife we had a great experience with whales and dolphins in Kaikoura before ending our trip in Christchurch.

After travelling for 31 hours Amsterdam - Auckland, via Bangkok stopover of 5 hours in Sidney, Quantas Fl. 2600,- return for Christchurch) we arrive in Auckland at 18:30. A little tiered but no jetlag at all. We picked up our car and drove straight through Auckland to Takapuna Beach Holiday Park. We slept in an on-site caravan ($nz 48 pn) with a lovely view of the island Rangitoto and the sea.

The next day we went to Auckland by bus, took the ferry to Rangitoto island (Fuller Volcanic Explorer $nz 20 pp) and walked there for about three hours. The island is volcanic so we walked to the crater. From the top of the crater you have a nice view of the island and the skyline of Auckland. We went back by ferry to see the penguins, sharks and more Antarctic sea life at Kelly Tartons Antarctic Encounter($nz 22 pp). After that we had a little drink in the centre of Auckland before heading back to Takapuna.

After a good night sleep we went to Muriway Bay. Here you will find a large colony of Gannets, which is a spectacular side.

From Auckland it is almost 300km to the Waipoua Kauri Forest with the already described stopover at Muriway Bay. After arriving we had to drive an additional 100 km since there are no shop in the area and no pots and pans in the rented cabin ($nz 20). We slept in the middle of the forest, in the night the possums are running almost across your feat when you have to go to the toilet.

The next morning we walked for 3 1/2 hours in the Kauri Forest (Yakas track and the Lookout track, map available at the DOC $nz 1) and looked at the gigantic Kauri tree, like Godfather of Forest, Four Sisters. These trees are almost 2000 year old and are sacred for the Maori people. We also visited a great viewpoint, after walked for an hour trough the mud. But the view made it worthwhile.

We drove to Waitangi in the Bay of Islands. Beautiful sea with a large amount of islands in it. In the afternoon we visited the Waitangi Treaty house (entrance nz 8 pp), where the treaty between the Maori and British was signed. Here you will encounter the Maori culture with their buildings. After our visit we walked for two hour to a waterfall in KeriKeri. We slept in hostel Mousetrap (Pahia $nz 40 pn double).

The following day we had a "full-day in de bay" (Kings Dolphin Cruises & Tours approx. $nz 75 pp). During the Boat ride to the dolphins we didn't have good weather. We were supposed to swim with the dolphins but we didn't. Not that we didn't see any dolphins there were lots of them and also close to the boat. But since they had babies it appears to be dangerous. The rest of the day we sailed through the Bay of islands. We walked at one of the islands. During the boat ride we spotted some flying fish. After returning we went for a walk in the Mangrove Forest in Waitangi, which is worthwhile.

Our next stop was Thames (Coromandel) approx. 350 km from the Bay of islands. We stayed in the Sunkist Lodge ($nz 37 pn double). This is a great hostel with a beautiful kitchen and a lovely garden. That night we spotted a fantastic sunset.

The next morning we rose early to go to Kauaeranga Valley (12 km from Thames). We walked the Webb Creek track to the Pinnacles Hut. Here we stopped for a while to wait till the weather became dry again and returned via the Billy Goat track. (approx. 6 hours) a very nice walk. Lots of people skip the Coromandel; we think we haven't seen enough.

Via the Waitomo Caves to Rotorua. In the caves of Waitomo (entrance $nz 20) lives a little blue glow-worm. It is very touristy but also clearly why. On the ceiling of the caves the glowworms create a kind of galaxy. These worms are also living in other parts of New Zealand and even outside, but less crowded. We will get back to that.

After arriving in Rotorua we first went to look for a place to stay. Eventually we found a place to stay at Backpackers 21 century ($nz 45 pn double with a shared kitchen). The name Rotorua means rotten eggs a name, which suits the city with lots of thermal activity. If you walk in the city park you will find boiling mud and steam vents. For a first encounter with the area we recommend the city park but the area has more to offer.

Like Wai-o-Tapu Thermal Wonderland ($12 pp incl. the Lady Knox Geyser outside the park) We arrived here at 8:30 when the park opened her doors with 6 other people. Which is incredible quiet to see the park very well. After our walk in thermal wonderland, which can’t be missed, we went to the Lady Knox Geyser at 10:15. They perform a show here with the washing powder which makes the geyser sprout at that particular moment but very impressive. After the geyser everybody goes to the Wai-O-Tapu with other words very crowded. We went the see the surroundings with her boiling mud pools. In the neighbourhood of Waiotapu we visited the Whakarewarewa Maori Park to experience a Maori concert. (12:15) Every culture has these kinds of concerts but this was done very nicely. The rest of the park is nice as well quite different from the other parks with many different aspects of the New Zealand nature (like the kiwi bird) and culture. The Pohutu geyser was a little disappointing we expected it to be bigger. At the end of the day we relaxed for a while in the thermal baths of the Polynesian Spa.

Via Taupo with her beautiful lake we continued to National Park. Along the way we passed the Huka Falls. Beautiful blue waterfalls. Arriving in National Park we first look for a hostel. In our case Howard’s Lodge ($nz 34 pn 2 persons in a four bedroom). From the lodge they can arrange transportation ($nz 16 pp) to the Tongariro Crossing a 6 hour walk in a moonlike landscape with amazing crater lakes.

Tongariro Crossing: it should have been one of the highlights of our trip. But unfortunately due to bad weather the owners of the hostel didn't bring us to the start. This because of the rain and wind, which can cause hypothermia, or the wind could easily blow you of the hills. Sensible but we will return to try again someday. Since we already booked our ferry to the southern island there was no time left to stay longer so we decided to go to Napier.

Napier Art Deco City, no doubt about it. The town, which was hit by an earthquake and is rebuild in Art Deco style has a pleasant atmosphere. With her nice building and interiors and lots of cafes a great place to spend a day WE stayed in the Stables Lodge ($nz 30 pn a dorm of 4). Every year in February the is a Art Deco Festival when everybody dresses up and the auto cars are driving in the street. Must be great.

After Napier we went to Wellington. Stayed in Rowena's Lodge the last two dorm beds. ($nz 38 pn. 6 dorm) A nice hostel with a great view over the city from their terrace. Wellington, the city were it normally is bad weather, but lucky for us not when we were there. During our stay in Wellington there was a street artist festival, which was very funny. Other things to see in Wellington are the free Te Papa museum (definitely worth a visit), The cable car ($nz 3 pp) and the Beehive of the Parliament.

The evening of leaving to the south island we had a BBQ in the Harbour ($nz 10 pp). We choose to be on the evening boat because of the sunset in the Marlbourough Sound and we were rewarded. During our boat ride of about 3 hours you will have the chance to see dolphins. We were lucky to spot four of them. Because we were on the last boat of the day we reserved a room in Picton. A wise thing to do. We stayed in the Picton Lodge for $nz 44 pn in a very nice double.

Via the Queen Charlottes Drive to Haveloc to continue our trip to Marahau. Along the way lots of nice beaches and a great surrounding. In Marahua we stayed at old Mc Donald’s Farm ($nz 35) in an on-site caravan. In the afternoon we went for a small walk at the beach.

The next morning we took the water taxi to Tonga via the seal colony. From Tonga (10:00 – 18:30) we walked the Abel Tasman National Park trail back to Marahau. Lots of bounty beaches one with clear blue and other with clear green water, absolutely great We had great weather we only miscalculated the distance or was is the tide that forced us to walk a little further. Along the way we saw a ray from the beach and had a lot of bites from the sand flies. All and all a beautiful walk in an amazing surrounding.

Just as a stopover to the Fox Glacier we slept in Westport and paid a visit to the seal colony. We slept and BBQ'd at the Westport Holiday Park in a very nice cabin ($nz 30).

The next day we went to Fox Glacier via the Pancake Rocks. The name says it all. Nice and special area.

After the Pancake Rocks and Frans Josef we arrived in Fox Glacier. To increase our chances for a good picture of the mirror lake Lake Matheson we went directly to the lake after arranging a place to stay at the Fox Glacier Holiday Park. (cabin $nz 40 pn) The lake is surrounded by tree, which protects it from the influence of the wind, which makes the mirror. A beautiful site with the Fax Glacier in the back. On our way back in the dark we met our first live possum. A nice little creature to see but a plague to the forest of New Zealand.

The following day we went for a walk with the Alpine Guides at the Fox Glacier (11:00 tot 16:30). With a group of ten people and a guide who create a nice walkway we spend a day at the glacier. The higher you get the clearer the ice. A great experience. In the evening we went to see the Blue glow-worms of Waitomo but then in a little forest. Not as many as in Waitomo but still pretty.

Before we started to travel again we paid a visit to Lake Matheson very early in the morning, which was worth getting up early.

On our way to Haast and Jackson Bay. "The end of the world" In the neighbourhood of Haast you should be able to find the "Incredible Red Rocks". After a gravel road of 22km with lot of hole and bumps you can see them. In our case a lot less Incredible Red, but maybe it was just this day. We slept in Haast Holiday Park ($nz 30 for a cabin). If you ask us if there is no need to stay in Haast you can just skip it.

Lucky for us the next day made everything right again. Wanaka, a relax little town close to the ever mad Queenstown beautiful situated at a crystal blue lake. In Wanaka we climbed Mt Roy. Mt Roy isn't special it self but the view are absolutely breathtaking and worthwhile the hard climb. We slept in hostel Matterhorn South. ($nz 38 pn double)

Via Queenstown where we had breakfast we went to Te Anau where we stayed in Lakefront Backpackers ($nz 45 double). The next day to the Milford Sound at 6:00 to get aboard our cruise at 9:00. (Red Boat Cruise, $nz 45 pp) Incredible beautiful boat ride in the Fjord. A little chilly but not to be missed especially with nice weather. (75% of the year the weather is supposed to be bad) After that slowly back to Te Anau.

The following day we walked a piece of the Keppler track to the Rainbow Reach (the first hut) and back. Normally this is a great walk and will take you 3 to 5 days but also as a daytrip it is possible to walk a bit. In the evening we visited the Te Anau Wildlife centre.

After that we went kayaking for a day at the Doubtful Sound ($nz 159 pp, Adventure Charters). A kayak trail with 8 people in double kayaks in a 30km Fjord. Just a Fjord like the Milford Sound but a bit more remote a less touristy Great to see it from you kayak. We saw some seals very close by who weren't shy at all. An unforgettable experience.

From Te Anau we drove via the Southern Scenic route to the Catlins. Sort of wildlife safari since there are a lot of sea animals. We started in Owaka via Purpoise Bay. If you are lucky in Purpoise Bay you can swim with Hector Dolphins. We stayed the night in Blowhole backpackers ($nz 40, double). Nice hostel with a beautiful veranda.

Continued via Via Cannibal Bay. Here you can find sea lions from a few yards, impressively close. After that via Nugget Point to Otago. We went to see the albatrosses at the Royal Albatross Centre and visited the yellow-eyed penguin at sand fly beach. These penguins are very rare and you must be patient to see them. The penguins arrive on the beach at around 19;00 from the sea, from there they hop over the rocks and climbed the steep mountain to their hideout, passing our lookout at a few yards. Wonderful creatures, walking very funny, falling regularly and constant calling each other so it was easy to spot them. We spend there a couple of hours. If you want to make some pictures use at least a 800asa film. That night we slept at Maofarmers ($nz 35)

After that we continued our trip via the Moeraki Boulders, strange round rocks on the beach. It doesn't sound special but they are, maybe because they really don't have a clue why they are only there and how they are formed.

Arriving in Oamaru we went to see some yellow-eyed penguins again. After the yellow-eyed penguins some little blue arrive from the sea at a different spot later in the evening (entrance $nz 8). Nice but less special and also a little bit too commercial. We spend the night at the Holiday Park in a cabin ($nz 32).

From Oamaru we went to Kaikoura. That night we had a hard time to get a hostel due to pre-booking so we ended up at a private home ($nz 36). Very nice people. The next day all whale watch tours were cancelled due to bad weather. Instead of the tour we made a walk in the neighbourhood.

The following day we finally go go Whale Watching ($nz 95 pp). During the tour we spotted four sperm whales. It's an impressive site when they are breathing and of course the tails before they dive and stay under the water for a long time. As a bonus we also saw a school of hundreds of Dusky dolphins of which they say they jump for joy. A special ending of the tour.

Our journey ends in Christchurch a nice town which looks very British. Here we had a relaxing day. As you probably have noticed New Zealand has a lot to offer and we are sure this a country which has something for everybody.